Burst Pipe?
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Yes. A live dispatcher answers nights, weekends, and holidays — not a phone tree. Describe what’s happening and the right technician is routed; emergencies go first.

Flat-rate and upfront. After diagnosing the problem we show you one fixed price, and work starts only after you approve it. The approved price is the price on your invoice — no surprise add-ons.

Burst pipes, active flooding, sewage backing up into the home, a suspected gas leak, and complete water loss. If it can damage your home or your health, it’s an emergency — call immediately.

We listen for pressurized water escaping with acoustic equipment and confirm with inspection cameras, pinpointing the leak under the slab without breaking concrete. Then we recommend the least invasive permanent fix: a spot repair, an overhead reroute, or a repipe.

It depends on the failure, not the age alone. A failed thermostat or heating element is usually worth repairing; a leaking tank is not — a tank that leaks has failed structurally and needs replacement. We’ll show you which one you’re dealing with and price both options.

Usually, yes. Most main-line blockages are grease, scale, or root intrusion, which we clear with hydro jetting or root-cutting equipment after a camera inspection. Digging only comes up when the pipe itself is broken or collapsed.

Yes — gas line repair, extensions for new appliances, and appliance hookups, with every joint pressure-tested to code. If you smell gas right now, leave the home and call us (or 911) from outside.

Texas, California, Florida, New York, and Pennsylvania are fully live — with 1977 cities covered between them, dispatched from our Katy home base. Six more states are launching soon; choose your state on the Service Areas page to see what’s live. Outside the list? Call and ask — if you’re within reach, we’ll make it work.

Shut off the main water valve — usually near the water meter or where the line enters your home — then switch off the water heater so it doesn’t run dry, open a few faucets to drain the pressure, and call +18338341087. Every minute the line stays pressurized is more water in your walls and floors.

Chemical cleaners dissolve a thin layer of the clog and wash away, but the physical blockage — hair, grease, soap scum, or roots — stays behind, so the drain slows again within days. They can also soften PVC and corrode older metal traps. A mechanical clearing with a cable or hydro jet removes the actual obstruction, and a camera inspection confirms the pipe is truly clean.

A tank heater stores a ready supply of hot water and is simpler and cheaper to install; a tankless unit heats water on demand, never runs out, and typically lasts longer, but needs adequate gas line capacity or electrical service and costs more upfront. The right choice depends on your household size, how much hot water you use at once, and your fuel type — we size both options against your actual demand.

One leak is a repair; a pattern is a system failure. Ask for a repipe assessment when you see recurring pinhole leaks in copper, rust-colored water, pressure dropping at several fixtures at once, or warm spots on a slab floor. If you’re paying for a new leak repair every year, replacing the failing lines costs less over time than patching them one by one.

It removes calcium and magnesium — the minerals that make water “hard” — by running your water through a resin bed that swaps those ions out before the water reaches your fixtures. The result is less scale on faucets and showerheads, longer life for water heaters and appliances, and soap that actually lathers. If you see white crust on fixtures or spots on glassware, your water is hard enough to benefit.

Yes — we reroute and extend gas lines for kitchen remodels, outdoor kitchens, pool heaters, and new appliance locations. Every new joint is pressure-tested and the work is done to code. Never cut into or cap a gas line yourself; gas work done wrong leaks silently.